Cosmetic & skin
Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8)
Also called acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3 (older INCI name), Argireline
Argireline is a short lab-made peptide used in anti-wrinkle creams and serums. It is marketed as a 'topical Botox' because it copies a piece of a nerve protein that Botox targets, but the evidence that it works through the skin is limited and mixed.
Overview
Argireline is a short lab-made peptide used in anti-wrinkle creams and serums. It is marketed as a 'topical Botox' because it copies a piece of a nerve protein that Botox targets, but the evidence that it works through the skin is limited and mixed.
How it works
Proposed: the peptide mimics part of SNAP-25 and competes for a place in the SNARE complex, the protein machinery nerves use to release signaling chemicals. In cell studies this reduced release, which in theory would relax the facial muscles that form expression lines. Not established: whether enough peptide gets through skin to reach muscle in people; a skin-penetration study cited in a 2025 review found that less than 0.2% got past the outer skin layer over 24 hours.
What research shows
- Blanes-Mira et al. 2002 (Int J Cosmet Sci) first described the peptide and reported anti-wrinkle activity; study design and concentrations were not re-verified for this entry.
- Lungu et al. 2012 (Eur J Neurol), double-blind placebo-controlled pilot in blepharospasm patients treated with botulinum toxin: those using an acetyl hexapeptide-8 cream had longer symptom relief than placebo; cosmetic outcomes were not studied.
- A skin-penetration study cited by Zdrada-Nowak et al. 2025 (Int J Mol Sci) found that under 0.2% of applied peptide passed the stratum corneum over 24 hours, and most was removed by washing.
- Lum et al. 2025 review (J Drugs Dermatol): some studies show wrinkle improvement, but significance is inconsistent; more consistent results come from multi-ingredient products that vary widely.
Doses studied in people
No drug-style dosing exists; it is a cosmetic ingredient used topically. Concentrations in published human studies could not be confirmed from the sources checked, so none are listed.
Read this first: these are the amounts given to participants in published studies or written on official prescribing labels, reported for reference. They are not recommendations. Trial doses were chosen for specific patients under medical supervision, and a dose that is safe in one person can be harmful in another.
Vial math
Many research vials hold 5 or 10 mg of powder. This table shows how much ends up in each mark on a U-100 insulin syringe for common amounts of added liquid. It is arithmetic only, not a dose.
| Vial | Liquid added | Concentration | Per unit (0.01 mL) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5 mg | 1 mL | 5 mg/mL | 50 mcg | Open in calculator |
| 5 mg | 2 mL | 2.5 mg/mL | 25 mcg | Open in calculator |
| 5 mg | 3 mL | 1.67 mg/mL | 16.7 mcg | Open in calculator |
| 10 mg | 1 mL | 10 mg/mL | 100 mcg | Open in calculator |
| 10 mg | 2 mL | 5 mg/mL | 50 mcg | Open in calculator |
| 10 mg | 3 mL | 3.33 mg/mL | 33.3 mcg | Open in calculator |
More sizes: all vial sizes · How this works: Syringes and units · Reconstitution guide.
Safety
- Generally well tolerated topically in small studies; no significant adverse effects were reported in the 2012 pilot trial.
- Long-term safety data and large controlled trials are lacking.
- Not a substitute for botulinum toxin; no head-to-head trials exist.
Report side effects of any drug or product to the FDA through MedWatch. For a possible poisoning in the US, call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222.
Legal status
- FDA
- Not an FDA-approved drug. Sold as a cosmetic ingredient; anti-wrinkle claims that suggest changing body structure or function can make a product an unapproved drug under FDA rules.
- Compounding
- Not applicable (cosmetic ingredient).
- Sports (WADA)
- Not listed.
- Other
- Listed under the INCI name acetyl hexapeptide-8 (formerly acetyl hexapeptide-3).
Rules change often. See Legal status of peptides for how these categories work.
History
Described in 2002 by Blanes-Mira and colleagues as an anti-wrinkle hexapeptide, developed by the Spanish company Lipotec (now part of Lubrizol), which markets it as Argireline. It became one of the most widely used cosmetic peptides.
Common questions
Is Argireline really 'topical Botox'?
Does Argireline get through the skin?
What does the research show on wrinkles?
Has it been tested in a controlled trial?
Is Argireline safe?
No significant side effects were reported in the 2012 pilot trial 2.
Why do labels say acetyl hexapeptide-8?
That is its ingredient (INCI) name, and older labels used acetyl hexapeptide-3 5.
Related compounds
Sources
- Blanes-Mira C et al. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci 2002 Journal
- Lungu C et al. Topical acetyl hexapeptide-8 in blepharospasm: a pilot study. Eur J Neurol 2012 (doi:10.1111/ene.12009) Journal
- Zdrada-Nowak J et al. Int J Mol Sci 2025;26(12):5722 (skin penetration) Journal
- Lum K et al. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 as a topical alternative to botulinum toxin: review of literature. J Drugs Dermatol 2025 PubMed review
- Acetyl hexapeptide-3/-8 (Wikipedia; identity, formula, CAS) Journal
Last reviewed 2026-10-25 · How we research · Found an error? See our corrections policy.